CHAINSTITCH HISTORY

What does “Chainstitch” mean? 

Chain stitching is the type of stitch that is laid out into the fabric – it looks like a small chain link. You can see chain stitch embroidery on a lot of vintage mechanics uniforms, or old bowling shirts. You can see a similar stitch to this in the bottom hem of jeans. 

The first successful chain stitch machine was developed in the early 1860s by a man named Antoine Bonnaz (hence my brand name – which we will come back to!). There were earlier attempts to make a chain stitch machine (in the early 1800s), but the stitching was inconsistent. Bonnaz sorted the machine out and got it down.

The patent for the machine was later purchased by Cornely. Cornely really brought the machines into mass production. The Singer sewing company in the early 1900s perfected this machine even more, and this is what I use today. The machine has not changed much since. It just takes a lot of oil!

Who or what is Jean Bonnaz? 

Bonnaz means, “To Embellish or to Embroider with a sewing machine” and obviously comes from Antoine Bonnaz. I use this in my name to tie my work in a current world to the history of the machine and the man that invented it. In the beginning of my path down the road of embroidery, I solely embroidered on jean/denim fabric. That explains my brand name “Jean Bonnaz” meaning “Denim Embroidery.” The machine thrives on the thickness and structure of denim. 

What machine do you use to embroider on? 

I use a 1951 Singer 114w103 chain stitch embroidery machine. I have had this machine since 2014 and it has always been by my side. 

How does the chain stitch embroidery machine work?

While using a machine, the product is still very much hand-made. Chain stitch embroidery is done by hand guiding a handle underneath the machine to direct the stitch in whatever direction the user turns the handle. It takes a lot of practice and great hand eye coordination.

CUSTOM

How much do custom chainstitch pieces cost?

Single lined script with 1-2 words starts at $25 + cost of shipping. For larger artwork, in general, a customized piece starts at around $100 give or take. It depends on how big you want the image, how intricate the design is, and if you want me to be a part of the design process or not. 

What is your turnaround time for a custom piece? 

Generally, my turn around time for a smaller project is 10-14 days. Larger projects can take anywhere from 2-4 weeks. I do accept rush orders when I can, and sometimes I can get things done much quicker, but it all depends on my slate in the moment. 

Can you chainstitch my artwork?

I am always happy to collaborate and chainstitch your artwork if it translates well through the antique lens of chainstitch. Artwork with lots of intricate detail doesn’t always work best. The smaller the image is, the more challenging it can be. Chain stitching thrives with bold designs. However, typically I can make most things work. Just shoot me an email to start the discussion and we will figure something out!

What type of items can you chainstitch embroider on? 

The best items to embroider on are made with heavier fabrics like denim or anything canvas. However, I often embroider on cotton sweatshirts, tees, leather, and more! There is always the option to create a patch on felt that can be easily sewed on to almost any garment. 

Is chain stitch the only type of embroidery you can do?

My main method of embroidering is done with my chain stitch machine. The other option I can provide for you that is still handmade would be free-motion embroidery. This is done on another antique machine known as the Singer 107w102 “Irish embroidery machine”. The stitch this machine makes is more of a zig-zag pattern that can start off as a straight stitch and get as wide as half an inch. The finished product looks more similar to classic embroidery seen on patches, bomber jackets, and traditional monogramming. If you are interested in this type of embroidery for your project, let me know when you fill out the Custom Embroidery form.

CARE

Can I wash my embroidered item in a washing machine?

For heavier items like jackets I would recommend dry cleaning as the best option. This helps keep the embroidery in its top form and long lasting. For simpler items like shirts, sweatshirts, and bandanas it is always suggested to wash in cold water and hang dry.

OTHER

Who designed your logo and typography? 

The amazing Bill Rebholz. He is a good friend and one of the best illustrators I know!

Do you set up for events? 

Yes! I am fully vaccinated and love a good in person event. I have set up at everything from movie premieres to baby showers to family events. Please see events page for more detail.

What if my company or project needs a larger quantity of items made or embroidered?

Yes! I do tons of corporate gifts, wrap gifts, and projects with costume designers and stylists. Please see corporate gifts page for more info!